Regarding menswear and style, there is nothing more seductive than dressed in a suit. This is obvious to older men and most of them are keen on wearing a suit either on formal occasions or in business environments. However, Generation Z are newcomer consumers and together with the so-called millennials do not have knowledge or particular interest in the archetype of menswear, the suit. It is important when they are called to try it on, to get in touch with its quality versions and accept it as previous generations did. However, it is important to know some of these quality traits to value properly. Unfortunately, there is a lot of offer or the wrong kind and, sadly, on the altar of costs, less product of worth investing in purchase.
A lot of people do not know that the men's suit is one of the most demanding garments in its tailoring. To produce a quality suit there are necessary special tailoring knowledge, a deeper sense of male anatomy and a number of millimetric measurements. We could say that making a nice man’s suit is an art in custody of highly skilled tailors and specialized brands that follow tailoring methods of production.
The so-called tailoring schools - still today in the era of globalization - stand out for their geographical orientation. This is the case respectively of the British suit style and of the schools of northern Italy, Rome and southern Italy (Naples, Puglia).
The english or british suit remains a source of inspiration mainly because today there are only a few interpreters left, with the production of tailored garments in the United Kingdom already having moved to third countries from the late 70’s. Jeremy Hackett is the most appropriate example if we would be able to locate one of its ambassadors. The suit is usually constructed from an evident but narrow shoulder with regular lapels and 2 or 3 button closure. The fabrics are mainly heavier than Italian ones and generally emit a classic style. The suit comes with functional buttonholes, that as tradition mentions British men unbutton occasionally when requiring manual labor.
An example of an English suit from Hackett.
This is the school of introduction to the great Italian tailoring tradition. It reached its peak in the 80s and 90s after the decline of the British school and is characterized by an accentuated shoulder and a rigorous style. Companies that carry the Milanese style as their identity are Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna. It is no coincidence that many international companies are still inspired by this philosophy. The fabrics come from the Biella region and the colors chosen for this type of clothes are generally dark toned followed by discrete patterns.
Example of the Milanese suit by Ermenegildo Zegna.
Unlike previous schools, the tailors of Southern Italy have chosen to express their temperament by creating a comfortable and light jacket, removing the shoulder pads and other interiors that they deemed unnecessary in order to obtain a flattering effect for the local men who desired look sharp in a more liberate manner. Waist is evident and higher in a way that hides body imperfections while turning them into an advantage. This school enjoys the recognition and preferences of the majority of suit connoisseurs. TAILOR as a true ambassador of the Neapolitan suit is a destination for those looking for quality garments made with well distinctive characteristics.
An example of a Neapolitan suit from TAILOR Italian Wear
It is also worth noting that at each school you can find several drop fits, with the main of these being:
Drop 4 - Suitable for bodies of short stature and fairly robust, resonates mainly in older aged men..
Drop 6 - Suitable for those who love to dress classic, has its fan base at middle aged men
Drop 7 & 8: A popular drop aimed at all those who love a slim fit, most men fall at this particular drop.